Definately a Girl.

Funny thing, I have static timed 1000 engines and when I got this engine running it was REALLY acting up. It wanted start hard and did not want to idle, but would run OK and rev OK and all that. I had a hard time because it would not idle. When I FINALLY was able to get the timing light on it, it was at something like 130 deg advanced. [Edited by Moparts - Family Friendly Site - Keep it clean]?? Every time I tried to back the timing down it would stall and backfire out the carb??? Totally perplexed I decided to start from scratch and static time it once again............WELL, I THEN discovered that I had two plug wires crossed, AND they happened to be the #1 and the #3....Doh! So I was timing off #3. What are the odds.

Now she just PURRS!

I haven't read all the posts, and it's not my place, but aren't those headers very, very small in terms of collector diameter and length?

I have torqued lots of rod bolts and I think you are doing it the hard way.

Here's my routine, if you want it, keep reading!

1)Lube liberally all surfaces that touch any other surfaces, not just the threads, with ARP lube. It makes a difference in both torque and stretch stability values.

2) Use your dial gauge to measure length with no torque.

3) Remove the gauge, set it aside carefully.

4) Torque the bolts up to about 70 lbs in 10 lbs increments, swapping sides each time. Use a high quality 1/2 drive torque wrench.

5) Recheck length with gauge and then remove, etc, increasing torque until you get to the desired stretch.

Leaving the gauge in place and using a 2 ft long wrench is asking for misery. It's also fairly dangerous.

I know what you'll say - taking the gauge off is inviting inaccuracy. But, once you do it a few times you'll realize the gauge is stable enough it is staying accurate.

I also don't agree that you need or want previously un-stretched bolts....if you torque and loosen those bolts five times you'll find they take a 'set' and eventually settle down to a repeatable stretch. That tells me their initial stretch, if that's all you do, is going to relax after a while.

2

OK,thanks for clarifying the headers.

Yes, I use the method I described on each bolt.

Nice

I wanted to give my first impressions of the new motor. One of the reasons I did not realize I had the #1 and #3 plug wires crossed is because it started right up and I EXPECTED a radical idle based on the cam specs. I was a little peeved when I first saw the cam specs because I did not really want a radical idle. Now I am glad I did not say anything, so I did not have to eat any crow.

Well, this motor is quieter AND smoother than the 406 crate motor. The carb is all messed up because I had the plug wires crossed and was cranking on it to get it to idle. But once I get it dialed, I expect this engine to idle surprisingly smooth. Once I static timed it the second time , it ended up being dead nuts on 35 deg timing so I left it there, but once I switch it to the crank trigger I will probably set it at 32 and call it good. LOL

The valvetrain is quiet and I am pretty happy about that. Can you say 9.90's with a hydraulic cam! Woohoo!

I only drove it over to Sloan's house yesterday (about 1 mile) and then about 5 more miles and I was taking it easy. The Rod bearing clearances were just a hair tighter than I like so I did not want to stand on it right away even though I know it is probably better for the rings. It drives quite a bit like the crate motor (which is also a hydraulic roller cam), moves away from a light a little easier, seems to really want to wake up if you goose the throttle. Right now I have the Race Demon RS Carb on it straight off the crate motor, BUT I have a brand new Quick Fuel Technology, Race Q 950 to go on it when I get around to it. I also have to make a new set of plug wires because of the taller Valve Covers. I was not expecting that and a couple of those wires are TIGHT going over the VV covers.

ALSO, UGH, I have to change the trans before I race it. Dave did not have any billet input shafts when he built this trans for me and so I will have to do something about that before I hit the track. He has my spare right now and I am going to light a fire under him to get it back. It's just as well, because I will be pulling the headers to get them coated and can do it then.

Ron, I have to give you credit, everything you do is first class .

Looks great!! Very nice work and it paid off!

Get the new trans in and bring the car to Sacramento next month, i will take some pics with the wheels in the air.

congrats!

Looks great! Went back and read every single post, the thought process,innovation,preperation&execution involved
in this 500 cube engine sorta reminded me of NHRA Pro Stockers evolution from small cubic inch engines to 500, and there progression since...It looks like many things that you guys did mirror what the Pro Stock set live by...i bet that thing will have a monster torque curve,pretty flat...pretty tight...and not much drop off during the 1-2 and 2-3 shift....very impressive..

once again that is totally awesome. 501 cid small block. can hardly wait to see some vids of it running and to hear it. still would like to know what brand vacuum pump that is.